A Peek Into Regency Style (1800–1820)
When I first read Pride and Prejudice in high school, I was hooked on the wit, romance, and fashion of the Regency period. For those of you who sew and wear your own Regency creations, I ardently admire you! After a bit of research, I discovered these delightful details about how Regency garments were constructed—read on for a little Jane Austen sewing history.
An Empire State of Mind
Who can forget the moment when Elizabeth meets Darcy at the country ball? That white empire-waist dress was inspired by classical Greek and Roman sculpture (when looking at the lines, it makes perfect sense). This new silhouette replaced the heavy, structured garments of earlier eras (can you imagine how long it would have taken Queen Elizabeth I to get dressed for breakfast?), and I am sure the lighter, simpler look was a relief for many women during this time period.
In addition, these gowns were often made from cotton muslin. It was breathable and could be washed more easily—highly desirable in the era before washing machines, since dresses (especially white ones) could get quite dirty around the hem strolling about London. However, to achieve a softer drape, some women dampened their gowns before social events! That must have been somewhat uncomfortable—especially in the winter.
Narrowing Down Fabric Choices
It’s worth noting that Regency fabrics were far narrower than what we have in the Boho Fabrics store today. While modern fabric typically measures 44–60 inches wide, Regency-era fabrics were often only 27–30 inches wide. This required careful piecing to conserve material. Many gowns included visible seam lines at the center back or beneath the bust—not for decoration, but out of necessity.
Fabric was expensive in those times, and nothing went to waste. Dressmakers carefully pieced small remnants into linings or hidden interior sections. Even narrow scraps were turned into facings or decorative trim. We can definitely look back to the past for inspiration in sustainability and thoughtful fabric use.
The Age of Hand Stitching
Although early sewing machine prototypes appeared in the early 19th century, they weren’t widely used until decades later. Most Regency garments were stitched entirely by hand.
Common techniques included running stitches, backstitches, and flat-felled seams for strength, along with overcasting or French seams to finish delicate fabrics. Slip stitches finished hems invisibly, while whip stitches secured trims and closures.
Hooks and eyes were frequently used instead of buttons, helping maintain the smooth front bodice line. Despite their ethereal appearance, these garments were extremely durable compared to modern fast fashion.
Layers Upon Layers
Just as we debate what to wear now on a breezy day (a T-shirt, sweater, and jean jacket perhaps), layering played an important role in Regency dress. Short jackets known as spencers provided warmth without covering the high waistline, while longer coats called pelisses protected against cold weather and muddy streets.
Bonnets framed the face and shielded skin from the sun—long before SPF 50+ existed.
Where Did All the Pockets Go?
I absolutely adore a dress with pockets. However, as Regency silhouettes slimmed down, the bulky pockets of earlier fashions disappeared from gowns. Instead, women carried small drawstring purses known as reticules. Gloves, shawls, and lightweight fichus added both style and practicality.
Accessories also signaled wealth and social standing. Fine embroidery, lace trim, and silk ribbons elevated otherwise simple garments. Ladies often wore gloves throughout the day—even indoors. As the ultimate Regency It Girl, I'm sure Emma followed all the fashion rules.
Fig Leaf Patterns for The Jane Austen Look
If this has gotten you ready to start your own Regency outfit, Mackenzie Anderson Sholtz is dedicated to creating historic sewing patterns designed for the home sewist who loves to reproduce clothing as authentically as possible.
And when you've made your swoon-worthy garment, please email us at social@bohofabrics.com—we would love to see your creation!
Sources
Ribeiro, Aileen. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. Yale University Press, 2005.
Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Women’s Clothes 1600–1930. Faber & Faber, 1968.
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen’s Dresses and Their Construction c.1660–1860. Macmillan, 1977.
Baumgarten, Linda. Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750–1790. Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2002.
Victoria and Albert Museum — Regency fashion collections and garment studies
The Metropolitan Museum of Art — Costume Institute historical garment resources
Photos
Photo by Dominika Walczak on Unsplash
Photo by Art Institute of Chicago on Unsplash
Photo by https://www.figleafpatterns.com