Cozy, stylish, and oh-so-versatile, sweater knits, rib knits, and waffle knits are some of our favorite fabrics to work with. But if you’ve sewn with them before, you know they can have their quirks. From prepping your fabric to finishing your seams, we’re breaking it all down to help you get great results every time!
Prepping Your Fabric
Before you even thread your machine, proper fabric prep is key to a smooth sewing experience.
1. Pre-Wash Your Fabric
Knits are notorious for shrinking or relaxing after their first wash, so always pre-wash your fabric to avoid surprises later. For looser weave sweater knits or fabrics that like to unravel, serge or zigzag the raw edges before washing to keep them from becoming a tangled mess in the washer or dryer.
If your fabric contains rayon, consider laying it flat to dry instead of tossing it in the dryer to help it keep its shape. While handwashing is the gentlest option (and the best way to avoid pilling), we totally get that life is busy, and not everyone has the time.
Tips to Reduce Pilling:
- Pre-Wash Trick: Before washing, put the right sides together and sew one seam to create a "tunnel" with the fabric’s right side on the inside. This protects the fabric’s surface from unnecessary friction.
- Turn Inside Out: After your garment is sewn, always turn it inside out before washing to reduce wear and pilling.
- Don't Add these to the Wash : Never launder brushed sweater knits with towels, French Terry, or any other highly textured fabrics. These can create friction and cause pilling—keep the wash load smooth and low-textured.
2. Iron Basics
Sweater knits, rib knits, and waffle knits often come in rayon or polyester blends, which can be heat-sensitive. Always use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric when pressing. Steam is your friend—use it to relax the fabric and help seams bounce back into shape—but keep your iron’s heat setting appropriate for the fiber content.
Sewing Tips
Once your fabric is prepped, it’s time to sew! Here are some tips to help you work with sweater knits, rib knits, and waffle knits confidently:
1. Test Your Stitches
Before you start sewing, test your stitches on a double layer of fabric scraps to see how the fabric behaves. This quick step can save you frustration later:
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Check for waviness in your seams. If you notice any, adjust your machine:
- Increase the differential feed on your serger.
- Reduce the presser foot pressure on your sewing machine.
- After sewing, use steam to press the seams flat for a clean, professional finish.
2. Prevent Fabric "Eating"
Tricky knits like rib, waffle, and loose weave sweater knits can sometimes get pulled into the machine at the start of a seam. Here’s how to avoid it:
- Start sewing further in: Begin stitching slightly away from the fabric edge to give your machine more material to grip. You can go back and finish the edge afterward if needed.
- Use tissue paper: Place a 1" strip of tissue paper between the bottom layer of fabric and your machine. This helps the fabric glide smoothly and prevents it from getting caught in the feed dogs. Simply tear the tissue away after sewing.
3. Stabilize Your Seams
Knits, especially looser weaves, can stretch out over time. To maintain the shape of your garment:
- Add clear elastic to shoulder and side seams. This provides extra support without adding bulk, ensuring your garment holds its structure.
4. Memory Press Hems
Here’s a new tip we learned from one of our incredible team members, Jessica, that’s been a game-changer: memory pressing your hems.
A memory press means pressing the hem allowance before assembling the garment. This step helps the fabric hold its shape and makes finishing much easier.
- For Sleeves: Finish the edges and press the hem allowance before attaching the sleeve to the garment. This keeps the sleeve stable, especially with tricky fabrics like loose weave sweater knits.
- For Bottom Hems: Finish and press the hem allowance before sewing the side seams closed. Working on a flat surface is much easier than trying to press or finish the hem in the round.
Thanks, Jessica, for sharing this gem—it’s especially helpful for sweater knits, waffle knits, and rib knits!
5. Keep Stitches Flexible
When sewing knits, flexibility is key:
- Use a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag for seams to allow for movement without popping stitches.
- Consider using a walking foot to help feed the fabric evenly and avoid wavy seams.
Tools and Techniques
The right tools make all the difference when working with sweater knits, rib knits, or waffle knits:
- Needles: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 75/11 or 90/14) to avoid snagging or skipping stitches.
- Thread: Polyester thread is your go-to—it has the stretch and durability you need for knits.
- Stitches: If you don’t have a serger, a zigzag or stretch stitch works beautifully on a regular sewing machine.
- Extra Support: Consider using a walking foot to help the fabric feed evenly and avoid wavy seams.
Final Touches
Don’t skip the pressing! The iron is your friend here. After sewing your garment, a quick steam press can help seams relax, flatten hems, and give your project a professional, polished finish. Whether you’re sewing a cozy sweater or a comfy top, these extra steps will make your creation look (and feel) amazing.
Remember to use that pressing cloth and check your iron settings!
Sweater knits, rib knits, and waffle knits can take a little extra care, but with these tips, you’ll be ready to tackle them with confidence.
Have Tips to Share?
Do you have any tips or tricks for sewing with sweater knits, rib knits, or waffle knits that we missed? Drop a comment below—we’d love to hear your ideas and add them to the list!